How can the beautiful arise alongside the cruel? How do you bring two worlds together? And how do you stand it, the simultaneity of things?
At the beginning of the Berlin Fashion Week, the Ukrainian designer Jean Gritsfeldt (33) is preparing for his show. He wants to show his designs on Thursday - and this time things are going differently than a year ago. In March 2022, shortly after the outbreak of war in Ukraine, he was unable to come to Germany himself.
The attack by Russia was a few weeks ago. Almost a year has passed since then, and pictures from Ukraine go around the world every day. About bombed-out houses and people who have to get by without electricity, gas and running water. Millions of people have fled, many have died.
Because Gritsfeldt could only be connected to the fashion week via video last spring due to the war, people helped without further ado and rebuilt his collection. Gritsfeldt is now in Berlin himself. Before the start of Fashion Week, which started on Monday, he gives an interview. His charisma has something otherworldly about it. This is probably also due to the things he says.
Two realities
When you photograph him, you realize that he used to work as a model himself. Doesn't that feel strange a year after the start of the war between models and influencers? "I don't have an answer to that question yet," he says. "It's a very strange feeling." You ask yourself if you can be happy and show it. "Because at the same time you know how many people are suffering right now."
When he comes back to Berlin, he has this strange feeling of two realities. Perhaps that too is a transformation - if you try to translate this experience into art, into work. Maybe that will give him strength. "If I didn't have my art as a weapon, I don't know what would happen to me."
Other Ukrainian creatives are also in the program during the fashion week. Fashion Week takes place twice a year. In addition to the catwalk shows, there are trade fairs and conference formats. One sponsor, the car manufacturer Mercedes-Benz, is no longer involved with its parent show MBFW this time, but is supporting a Marc Cain solo show on Wednesday. Then US actress Andie MacDowell and daughter Rainey Qualley should come.
The Berlin Salon opened on Monday afternoon. There, several designers are exhibiting some of their designs in a former multi-storey car park. So people walk up the access ramps in nice clothes, wait to be let in, take photos. In the exhibition you can see collages of materials, cuts with a Japanese touch, unusual hats, lots of ideas.
In the sign of war
Fashion week often brings beautiful pictures, some escapism, some vanity. But one would not do justice to the fashion world with this description alone. You saw that last year - back then it was only possible with the support of other people that Gritsfeldt's show could take place despite the war.
Back then, sirens could be heard at the beginning of the show. The clothing featured statements such as "Respect", "Freedom", "Unity", "Peace", "Ukraine", "Humanity" and "Poetry". Models also wore a panel of Ukrainian colors blue and yellow down the runway. This time Gritsfeldt wants to show other elements of his work in addition to the protest. He was something of a superstar in Ukraine, he says. He worked with celebrities.
The war is part of his story, but it is only a part. Gritsfeldt hopes that people will continue to be seen for what they are particularly good at, for their skills and ideas. His concern for this season is also to show the image of a Ukrainian designer - not as a victim, but as a proven specialist. Creating something under these new conditions is not so easy. "I'll be honest - I'm still human." He also sometimes feels lonely at night. He says they all have one wish: "To get a win this year."
In the conversation, he makes it clear that he believes in a universal connection between people. "People want the same things," he says. "They want to be loved. They want to be happy. They want to look great. They want to feel freedom."
